In the middle of nowhere, the universe
The PacayaSamiria, in the Peruvian Amazon, there are fourteen species of monkeys and we managed to spot nine of them: spider, howler, marmoset, friar, lion, pygmy, choro, woollyfriar, lion, pygmy, woolly monkey.a rarely-seen red-faced uakari.
By Josefina Barrón
Photos: Courtesy
Our first foray into the jungle reveals its indomitable character. We are traveling on board a boat that feels like an oasis in the midst of this unrestrained landscape. Giant trees, vines, trunks contorted into random figures, heliconias, black water, sloths, pink dolphins, anacondas, poisonous snakes, tarantulas that don’t mind being touched, small monkeys peeping out from dense vegetation, birds that trill portents, birds garbed in seven colors, and the river, always the river, marking the cadence of everything that lives and breathes here.
It’s hard to say whether it’s the crew or the design touches, the service or the decor, or the food or our trips in small launches that impress me the most. I really think It’s all of it. Alex and Juan, two of the expert nature guides who lead small groups on excursions, bring empathy and an encyclopedic knowledge that draws us closer to the wildlife in the most biodiverse tropical forest in the world. Álex is from Arabela, a community on the bank of the Napo River. Juan is descended from the Shipibo indigenous people. Like almost all the crew members, both are members of indigenous groups, giving them an intimate connection to the reality of the locations we visit, our excursions, and the talks they give on the boat. It’s a well-structured awareness-raising campaign that makes the experience more meaningful.
Aqua Expeditions participates in several local conservation projects, one of which involves watching over the eggs of yellow-spotted river turtles until they hatch, and then releasing the newborns in protected areas. More than 750 of these turtles were released in 2023.
I am curious. I want to pinpoint where I am in the Amazon. I can’t hone in on my location without a cell phone, but I try to find myself in the vastness with the help of a signal on board the boat. I can’t resist sharing my location with my family. I just realized how remote this destination is, that I’m just a little dot on this planet, in this void that is a universe in itself amidst the winding, meandering rivers and narrow channels that snake through the impassioned feral greenery of this region. I’m flooded with emotions. We truly have penetrated into the heart of the mother jungle. That’s how far we’ve come. That’s as far as we got.
Our boat travels through the afternoon and evening until we drop anchor deep in the Amazon. The captain says our adventure will start tomorrow at dawn, but the truth is that it began when we boarded our plane in Lima. If you’re already curious, look out the window half an hour after take-off, and you’ll get a splendid view of the magnificent backbone of our country: the Andes. Imposing snowy mountains rise proudly between the arid coast and the Peruvian Amazon. Such a contrast: implacable deserts dotted with unassuming dusty valleys bumping up against enormous rocky mountains where humans learned to carve out crop terraces, which in turn give way to silvery snow mantling the titans of the Andean mountain range.
The rivers and lakes that water the western slopes of the Andes are born in the heights and make life possible in the sandbox that is the Peruvian coast. But on the eastern slopes, another world spreads down as far as the Atlantic: staggering cascades of water gush into the Amazon River, nurturing an explosion of life. What is more, one of our snowy peaks —the Mismi— is the birthplace of the great Amazon River. Before descending to sea level, the rim of the jungle fills our visual field with its fierce vegetation and a shifting panorama of gentle hills and dramatic chasms. It all leads to that forest of water and mudflats, with moist soil that doesn’t really lend itself to cultivation. Time to put on rubber boots if we want to get out and walk. That’s what we do. We follow completely untouched paths to a giant tree that looks like something out of Avatar: an ancient lupuna or ceiba tree. The roots seem to offer a hug. We accept.
From November to May, water will flood the entire Amazon rain-forest. From June to October, the water subsides considerably. Marks left on the tree trunks show just how high the water rises. The difference can be a fair number of feet. I can’t even imagine how it’s possible to live with these fluctuations of high and low waters over the year; everything changes, from the ecosystem to the routines followed by the people, animals, and plants. For now, the water has receded, making way for a different dynamic in the Amazon. The walking palms, so named because their roots resemble legs in motion, come to the fore. Even the sound of the cicadas blends into a concert in this cathedral built by nature and protected by the Peruvian people.
The jungle contrasts with the ambiance on board our marvelous boat, where every detail has been carefully thought out. The gorgeous suites convey a feeling of calm despite the wild nature outside; the common spaces are elegant with dramatic touches. Design from the era of the rubber boom and the colorful cultures of Portugal, Spain, and Peru have been combined with modern decorative pieces. The Aqua Nera, whose name alludes to the lakes of black water found in the Peruvian Amazon, is considered the most sophisticated boat to ply the Amazon River. Architects and designers took the distinctive stamp of contemporary style to another level, creating a unique Aqua Expeditions look. Company owner Francesco Galli Zugaro plans everything, right down to the special tableware used on the cruise.
Engraved in my memory is the time members of the Aqua Nera crew brought us cocktails and snacks to complement the jungle sunset we enjoyed from launches bobbing mid-river. We savored the food and beverages as we listened to forest sounds that were growing louder by the minute. Álex explained that the encroaching darkness brings out more animals. The sound eventually expanded to fill any available silence. Night fell. Life rumbled around us as we headed back to the boat in a state of sheer ecstasy. Local residents note that hunters look skyward before going out – moonlight is not good for hunting. A moonless, starless night is best.
There are almost fifty ethnic groups in the Amazon. There are 48 languages in Peru, 44 of which are spoken in the Amazon.
Every day is like a spa day on the Aqua Nera. Conversations grow more intense and more interesting day by day. The dinner hour is a ritual. Working with the boat’s cooks, prestigious Peruvian chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino has created a signature cuisine with native products from the Amazon region. More and more Amazonian fruits and other products are incorporated into his culinary creations, lending their distinctive nuances to his offerings. Darwin is responsible for the pastries. The fusions are whimsical and exquisite. A panoply of sour, sweet, unusual, lush, spicy, and honeyed flavors caress the palate. Everything in these environment exudes sensuality. Everything here stimulates the senses. I end the journey overwhelmed by the sensation. I vow to return alone to once again see the bird dressed in seven colors and hear the celestial choir of cicadas.
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