Merida Cathedral
By Emma Romeu
Photos : Gabriela Guerra, Cristian H. Rasmussen y William Bello
The bells of Mérida Cathedral echo in southeastern México. It is noon on the dot. Gathered in the plaza under a blazing sun, the crowd turns toward the towers of the iconic church. These bells have pealed for over four hundred years. Inaugurated in 1599, this is the second cathedral to have been built in the New World, the first being the Cathedral of Santo Domingo. Should you wish to check the accuracy of the bells, you will need to consult your own watch; the clock on the church’s south tower —dating from 1731— has not told time for more than a hundred years.
The impressive Mérida Cathedral, or Cathedral of San Ildefonso as it is also known, has for centuries been noted for its height in the low-rise Yucatecan capital, where tall buildings are still scarce. Several architects and builders were involved in the design and construction, which took nearly four decades, but the person who completed the work was immortalized in an inscription atop the cornice at the base of the dome. “This work was finished during the reign of his magesty [sic] King Phillip II over Old and New Spain and the West and East Indies. The master was Juan Miguel de Agüero. Year 1598.” The arduous task of hauling and handling stones for the construction fell to the indigenous population.
As with other churches and cities in the Americas, the Yucatán capital was built with stones originally used in the pyramids and other structures of the civilization that had once ruled these lands. The Maya Book of Books of Chilam Balam says: “Ichcaansiho is the ancient name of the current city of Mérida… The name underwent changes… Spanish chroniclers and even some indigenous people recorded it as Ti Ho’ or T-ho’.” One of the translations of the name Ichkansiho (a current spelling) is “face of the birth of the heavens.”
Mérida was founded in 1542 by conquistador Francisco de Montejo (the Younger). Construction of the cathedral began some twenty years later. Historian Miguel A. Bretos, author of an invaluable book on the history of this church, Mérida Cathedral. The Great House of God in T’hó. U pakal ku na y an chumuc cah T’hó, notes that this is where “Christianity began to spread across the country.”
In 1915, during the government of General Salvador Alvarado, the interior of the Cathedral was ransacked by an anti-clerical mob. The burning, sacking, and general destruction wrecked the beautiful main altar, side altars, paintings, statues, and even the lovely choir loft, with its impressive German organ acquired in 1902.
Few of the pieces of sacred art currently in the cathedral are original, but the ravages were repaired over time and other pieces took the place of those that had disappeared. Some years later, a new tubular organ replaced the previous one.
When entering the cathedral, your attention is immediately drawn to the enormous wood Unity Christ on the main altar. The 25-foot tall work was sculpted in birch by Spanish artist Ramón Lapayese del Río in 1965. The 40-foot mahogany cross is the work of Yucatecan artisans.
The façade of the cathedral exemplifies the simplicity of the style: the smooth walls contrast with the ornate embellishments common to other cathedrals in México. With regard to this architectural gem, the Yucatán archdiocese webpage notes: “The Renaissance-Mannerist characteristics of the Mérida Cathedral are evident throughout the church.”
A giant stone coat-of-arms under the arch of the façade used to show the royal arms of Spain, but the shield has changed over time. In the book Mérida Cathedral, by Christian H Rasmussen et al quotes historian Juan Francisco Peón Ancona: “The center portion of the coat-of-arms disappeared; it was essentially erased by hammer and chisel, leaving only the blank shield, the crest, the wreath, and the side mantling. Shortly after the coat-of-arms was damaged in 1824, Emperor Iturbide’s crowned Mexican eagle was sculpted onto the blank shield…”
Two columns on either side of the façade frame the stone statues of St. Peter and St. Paul in their niches, the whole in turn framing the main door or “Pardon Door,” which is open on Sundays; the doors on either side of the main door provide access on other days. The façade is finished with two 3-story bell towers, one on each end.
The church has a central nave and two side naves. There used to be five chapels, but two were sacrificed in the building of the Pasaje de la Revolución walkway, leaving only the three on the north side: the Baptistry Chapel, the Tabernacle Chapel, and the Christ of the Blisters Chapel. The latter houses a reproduction of the original statue, which disappeared in 1915.
Nearby buildings provide an extraordinary panorama of the cupola. Visitors can view the cathedral from restaurant and hotel terraces and other nearby buildings for a glimpse of the majesty that adds such an indescribable nuance to a Mérida sunset.
For information on the condition of this architectural gem, we consulted the pleasant auxiliary bishop of the diocese of Yucatán, Pedro Sergio de Jesús Mena Díaz, who told us:
“One of the wonders of our cathedral is that it was built on the solid ground of the peninsula, which has helped conserve it. We can see that the walls, columns and vaults are still in very good condition. A little maintenance has been required on parts of the roof that have deteriorated a bit. The structure as a whole —walls, floors, and vaults— is in good condition.”
Lovely Mérida Cathedral sits on the west side of the city’s main plaza, a dynamic hub of culture and business. On weekends, the plaza hosts the popular “Sunday in Mérida,” a fest of live music, handicraft sales, traditional dances, and other outdoor activities. It’s just one more reason to get to know Mérida and its cathedral, not to mention the wealth of culture in this exceptional part of the world.
