Chiriqui: An extraordinary destination
By: Viodelda Barrías
Photos: Javier A. Pinzón
Two beaches
in one day
Uocated more than 400 kilometers from Panama City, the province of Chiriqui – also known by its indigenous name, the Valley of the Moon – has a coastal area that stretches from neighboring Costa Rica to the Azuero Peninsula, and includes almost virgin beaches, areas of medium tourism development and towns that are beginning to transform due to the boom in tourism, which is discovering the beauty and biodiversity of the region.
The purpose of this, our first day in the province, was to visit two of its most famous beaches: La Barqueta and Las Lajas. We begin our adventure by visiting Alanje, a small colonial town known throughout the country as a pilgrimage site for the Catholic faithful devoted to the Holy Christ of Alanje and gateway to La Barqueta. The history tells that Alanje was founded in September 1591 and in its Basilica Menor Santiago Apostle is the figure of the Holy Christ. Every year, both during Holy Week and in September, thousands of people come to the church to ask or thank for favors. After a brief visit to the church, we headed towards La Barqueta.
Located 25 minutes from the city of David, La Barqueta is one of the most popular beach resorts for Chiricans, and by the time we arrived the sun had already taken over its 23 kilometers of beach. Declared a Sea Turtle Protection Area and Wildlife Refuge, the strong waves lend themselves to surfing, its mangroves to kayaking and its forests to horseback riding or watching the sunrise, although the locals say that the sunset is one of its greatest attractions. As a turtle nesting site, with some luck and if you stay longer, you will be able to witness the nightly arrival of turtles that come to lay their eggs.
The beauty of La Barqueta is impressive, but the sea is rough and breaks strongly on the sand. So take your precautions with the whirlpools; ask the locals for the safest area for swimming.
Once the visit to La Barqueta is over, the next thing to do is to travel the approximately 112 kilometers that separate it from Las Lajas beach, where you can enjoy an incredible tranquility, since mass tourism has not yet arrived. It is a haven of peace of 18 kilometers long of iridescent sand, in the district of San Felix, ninety kilometers east of David, in a town of the same name, inhabited mainly by fishing families.
Even so, it is possible to find some hotels to stay with family or couple, although the place lends itself to camping: its almost turquoise sea, the sparkling waves, the tranquility… Everything invites you to pitch a tent and protect yourself from the sun, or rent some of the ranchos offered by the locals. As with La Barqueta, be careful: at high tide, the swell is strong and dangerous.
If you decide to stay to watch the sunset, be prepared for the spectacle of eastern Chiriqui: as the sun sets on the horizon, the sky turns orange and your lungs fill with that saltpeter wind that you could swear cleanses your soul. The experience is almost mystical.
Sailing among
islands and corals
¿Do you want an island all to yourself, do some high-end sport fishing, swim in white sandy beaches or stay in a cabin with the “Unique Lodges of the World” seal? All this is possible in the Gulf of Chiriqui, an area located along the Pacific coast of Panama, between the provinces of Chiriqui and Veraguas.
To enjoy the wonders offered by the Gulf of Chiriqui National Marine Park, we entered through Boca Chica, a small fishing village that in the last decade has presented a dizzying hotel development on its coast and on nearby islands, such as Boca Brava, Palenque and other more distant islands such as Islas Secas.
We depart from the Seagull Cove Resort, a charming boutique hotel located on the mainland with its own dock. The idea was to make a panoramic tour of the archipelago and enjoy its soft beaches and clear waters.
The first island that can be seen, before the protected area, is Boca Brava, a mountain that suddenly emerges from the sea, where the Cala Mia Boutique Resort operates, considered another jewel of the area. The island has white sand beaches, cabins surrounded by lush trees, private dock, sport fishing activities and spa, among other amenities.
Then there are the islands Paridas (the largest of all) and Paridita, Santa Catalina, Pulgoso, Tintorera, Obispo, Obispone, Icacos, Corral de Piedra… The sea is truly turquoise, crystal clear. Soon Bolaños appears, with its four beaches of soft white sand lined with coral reefs and visited by marine megafauna. From the boat we could see a turtle welcoming us and inviting us to enjoy the warm waters of the Gulf. A few minutes later we arrive at Isla Gamez and its two white sand beaches. Here we disembark, enjoy a refreshing drink and swim in its transparent waters.
PBut our eyes were still missing other paradisiacal places to discover in this natural environment. Outside the protected area, Isla Palenque was fascinating and surprising, with its hotel of the same name, which offers luxury and comfort in the middle of 162 hectares of tropical jungle.
The resort is one of ten hotels managed and developed by Cayuga Collection in Central America whose hallmark is sustainability. Isla Palenque Resort has been distinguished by National Geographic as “Unique Lodges of the World”.
A guide was waiting for us at the hotel pier, who offered us wet towels to cool off from the hot sun and then a van took us for six minutes through lush landscapes to the other end of the island, where the bungalows or bungalows are located. We enjoyed a succulent lunch that included chayote ceviche as a starter, accompanied by a fresh and delicious tuna steak as a main course and caramelized pumpkin for dessert.
After returning to the mainland, we went to visit the Boca del Mar hotel, less than five minutes from downtown Boca Chica. Another environmental paradise offering finely decorated cabins, several swimming pools, restaurant and private dock. We listened to their wide range of touristic offers and excursions before leaving for our next engagement: the sunset in the middle of the sea. It was worth it: a luminous sun painted the sky red, yellow and orange, and it was located between two islets to hide in the sea. Upon returning to Seagull Cove Resort, another surprise awaited us: the traditional Saturday party of its Tiki Bar.
Dry Island, idyllic and magical
On the third day of our adventure we left the dock of the Seagull Cove Resort for the Dry Islands archipelago. After about 45 minutes of navigation we spotted what would be another unparalleled experience: Cavada Island, the largest of the fourteen islands that make up the archipelago and that hides some of the most idyllic resorts in the region. Its surrounding waters are home to more than 750 species of fish and 128 species of plants.
Isla Secas Reserve and Resort was reopened last December 20; with a new look for all its public areas, restaurants and casitas (cabins), it invites you to a true experience under the stars. There, the energy source is solar; the agUsed water is recaptured, leftover food is dehydrated and plastic bottles are not used. The idea is to keep the environment in its best condition.
En this tropical paradise you can escape to one of the archipelago’s islands, snorkel in its clear waters, paddle surf, stand-up kayak, relax in its complete spa or spend the day lying comfortably in a hammock.
After a walking tour of the island and its impressive trails and in four wheel We had lunch in front of the sea: ceviche de sierra, freshly caught tuna accompanied by lettuce and tomato salad dressed with guanabana sauce, patacones and, to culminate this gastronomic experience, banana ice cream with organic chocolate compote.
The captain of the boat was waiting for us at the hotel dock for our return trip to the mainland. We spent three days visiting the best beaches of the Pacific coast of Chiriqui, an exciting experience that invites you to repeat it.
Where to stay
In Boca Chica
Hotel Bocas del Mar. Beautiful cabins. It has a private dock. Tel. +507 6395 8757. info@bocasdelmar.com / www.bocasdelmar.com
Seagull Cove Resort. Boutique hotel. At the Tiki Bar you can enjoy good music and folkloric presentations. Tel. +507 851 0036. www.seagullcoveresort.com
In the islands of the Gulf of Chiriqui
Isla Palenque Resort. Its hallmarks are luxury and environmental sustainability. Distinguished by National Geographic as “Unique Lodges of the World”. Tel. +1 855 679 4364. www.islapalenque.com
Cala Mía Boutique Resort
, on Boca Brava Island, its facilities are harmoniously integrated with nature. Tels. +507 851 0025 / 6972 6954 / 1 800 507 1246. calamiaresort@gmail.com
www.calamiaresort.com
Isla Secas Reserve and Resort
, on Cavada Island, the largest of the Dry Islands archipelago. Its small houses intermingle with the jungle. It has solar panels. Tel. 800 377 8877. www.islasecas.com
