A Culinary Tour: Through Panama City’s Neighborhoods

The canalside capital is a mosaic of unique neighborhoods, each with an essence and personality that are reflected in its gastronomic offerings. From the historic streets of the Old Quarter to the modern Costa del Este and Santa María, through cosmopolitan San Francisco and bohemian Bella Vista, the city boasts myriad culinary experiences for all tastes. Bon appétit!

By: Alexa Carolina Chacón

Photos: Aroni Domínguez and cortesy

You’ll hear extravagant and sometimes debatable claims and superlatives about any destination, but the fact that Panama City abounds in delicious cuisine is not up for debate. With five restaurants on “Latin America’s 100 Best Restaurants” list and countless outdoor terraces, the Panamanian capital’s innumerable high-quality culinary offerings cater to everyone. In October of 2017, Panama City was named a UNESCO Creative Gastronomy City, becoming the first city in Central America to earn this designation.

Why is Panama City a culinary destination? To begin with, here you can enjoy authentic Italian, Afro-Antillean, Spanish, and several types of Asian cuisine, among many others. Second, its geographic location provides exceptional access to fresh products from both land and sea. High-quality native ingredients like corn, plantain, fish, and seafood are sourced directly from the producers. Third, the creative gastronomic community has worked hard to put Panama on the world map. Chefs like Mario Castrellón (Maito) and his concept of chombasia (fusion of Afro and Cantonese flavors)––as representative of Panama as a sancocho (chicken-vegetable soup)––and José Olmedo Carles (Fonda Lo que Hay) and his cheeky Panama-inspired cuisine have attained global recognition in recent years, while bringing equally talented colleagues to the attention of the public.

Come join me on a culinary tour of Panama City’s main neighborhoods and travel the world without leaving the Isthmus.

San Francisco

There is a bit of everything here. Great chefs who have imprinted their culinary concepts on the popular imagination come together in the space of a few blocks. Local gastronomic treasures include Casa Escondida, where chef Alfonso de la Espriella has created a culinary haven under the banner of “casual dining.” Cazuelita de mondongo (tripe stew), pork cracklings, and chicken smoked over nance wood are some of the headliners on the menu. Don’t forget to sample the margarita, a cocktail so popular it is served on tap.

Azafrán, by chef Álvaro Perrino, is an oasis in the midst of the concrete jungle. Located in Coco del Mar, the yellow house set among tropical plants stands in contrast to the surrounding towers. The menu leans toward Spanish cuisine, with dishes such as fried eggs with Spanish chorizo, and lamb shank on mushroom risotto.

Espeziak is the new kid on the block. Helmed by Basque chef Xabi Vallejo and embellished with plants and flowers from Flora Lab (located on site), the Spanish touch is clearly evident here as well. Everything is intended to be shared. The octopus crispy rice and the duck rice with Pedro Ximénez sherry, not to mention the clams with aged mustard, are not to be missed. For me, the star of the show was the Basque tart, a Xabi specialty and the dish that first brought his name to my attention. Chef Roberto Richa’s eponymous Richa is decorated with impeccable taste. The first things you notice are crisp white curtains and the restaurant’s restrained name plaque, both hinting at a haute cuisine experience: contemporary Mediterranean with outstanding crunchy tiradito (ceviche- style yellowtail), sourdough bread (Krume) with hummus and baba ganush, and perfectly cooked octopus. The chef himself calls it food with soul.

Bella Vista

Culinary experiences in this unquestionably bohemian and colorful neighborhood in the center of the city run the gamut from good casual food to places like Makoto, one of the country’s best Japanese restaurants.

One recommendation in Bella Vista’s is Ciao Ragazzi, which captures the essence of authentic Italian food. With several branches around the city, this restaurant is known for thin, crispy-crust pizzas, homemade pastas, seafood risotto, and classic tiramisu. My favorite dish is the San Daniele ravioli (ravioli filled with ricotta, Parmigiani-Reggiano, and Parma ham) or the gnocchi gamberi e rúcola (gnocchi with shrimp and rucola). Paired with a suggested wine, this is all you need to send you happily on your way.

The businesses described here not only serve great food but are also a sure bet for cocktails. For some years now, a creative bar with quality mixology has been essential to any recognized, successful dining outlet, resulting in a heightened gastronomic experience.

The recently launched Celia Bar de Vinos (wine bar) specializes in a judicious selection of international labels complemented by food options that include tapas and light dishes designed to enhance the flavors of your chosen wine.

Arrogante is the chic neighbor. Located in a traditional Bella Vista-style house, the understated salon is softly lit and opens to a terrace that adds a summer vibe, with its black- and-white-bottomed pool, a bar with barstools, and tables for savoring delicious Italian dishes amidst the greenery. It is like having dinner at an old mansion but elevated to an extraordinary level.

For a more informal, but equally delectable experience, Taquería Monterrey brings authentic Mexican flavors to the El Cangrejo neighborhood. Known for its tacos al pastor (tacos filled with pineapple and pork grilled on a spit), quesadillas, fresh guacamole, and costras—a traditional dish from Nuevo León featuring “tortillas” made of grilled cheese—this is a true slice of México in Panama.

Casco Antiguo and Amador

Sabroso Panamá, a restaurant that celebrates the treasures of Panamanian cuisine, sits on the Amador Causeway. The themed interior transports diners to different parts of the country as the restaurant serves up iconic dishes like fried snapper and chicken and rice, seasoned with live folkloric shows. It’s the perfect place for the complete Panamanian experience. The Old Quarter and Amador areas of Panama City are historic jewels that blend colonial charm with a vibrant culinary scene. Their cobblestone streets and sea views create the perfect backdrop.

In the heart of the Old Quarter, Mahalo stands out for its focus on healthy eating. Founded by two Canadian sisters in 2016, this restaurant serves international dishes with a homestyle touch, prepared with fresh, local ingredients. Located in the Las Clementinas hotel, the first thing to catch your eye is the picturesque high-ceilinged bar and lovely tile- work. The draw is the terrace set up in the interior garden. Also in the Old Quarter, Lula promises Israeli street food flavors. The restaurant is known for its inviting atmosphere and homemade pita bread.

Costa del Este and Santa María

This area has developed its own identity. Here you’ll find restaurants with a professional ambience perfect for business meetings, terraces with wonderful food and an even better atmosphere, and international cuisine. Both neighborhoods are situated on the way to the Tocumen International Airport, making them ideal for travelers who prefer to not stray too far from their boarding gates. Located in the Santa María Business Park, Benny’s is the newest member of the Maito Group. This restaurant, which will transport you to New York, is quickly becoming a favorite place to savor a good steak, especially with tasty sides of mashed potatoes or broccolini. You might whet your appetite with a starter of grilled langoustine or carpaccio. Of all the Group’s options, I find this one the most appealing. Grupo Maito has two other great choices in Costa del Este. Atope lets you sample Spanish tapas accompanied by a good wine. It’s perfect for slipping away early from work for happy hour on the terrace. Start with tempting bread with tomato, Iberian ham, croquettes, and the fantastic papas bravas (spicy fried potatoes). Make sure to order a tinto de verano (sangria-type red wine beverage).

The Mai Mai rooftop bar blends the concept of Lima’s Maido restaurant—by chef Mitsuharu Micha Tsumura— with Maito—chef Mario Castrellón’s principal restaurant. With a focus on sushi and izakaya (comfortable ambience with alcohol and snacks), Mai Mai combines the best of Japanese and Panamanian cuisine in a lively atmosphere overlooking the city. Lastly, there is Costa del Este’s ACHA, an executive dining room par excellence. The menu is known for its specially prepared cuts of meat, such as the beef filet Javier, or the beef filet with mustard, truffles, and mushrooms. Another indulgence is the spider crab served in its shell. Exquisite.

SAN FRANCISCO

•Casa Escondida @restaurantecasaescondida
• Azafrán @restauranteazafran
• Espeziak @espeziak
• Richa @restaurantericha

BELLA VISTA

• Ciao Ragazzi @ciaoragazzigroup
• Celia Bar de Vinos (Wine Bar)
@celiabardevinos
• Arrogante @arrogante.panama
• Taquería Monterrey
@taqueriamonterreypanama

CASCO ANTIGUO / AMADOR

• Sabroso @sabroso_panama
• Mahalo @mahalococinayjardin
• Lula Casco @lulacasco507

COSTA DEL ESTE / SANTA MARÍA

• Atope @atoperest
• Mai Mai @maimaipanama
• Benny’s @bennyspanama
• ACHA @achacde

No mention of Panama City’s culinary scene is complete without a nod to the five restaurants included in “Latin America’s 100 Best Restaurants.” Maito, La Tapa del Coco, Íntimo, and Cantina del Tigre are all located in San Francisco. The Old Quarter is home to Fonda Lo que Hay.