El Cangrejo: Spirit of Rebellion

There is no neighborhood in Panama City like this one. With Via Argentina as its main attraction, in just a few blocks, Crabtown (as locals call it), brings together creative spaces, culinary diversity, the city’s best nightlife, and specialty coffee shops. What’s so special about it? In additiono being very walkable, each shop displays rebellion and authenticity in its own way.

By Alexa Carolina Chacón

Photos: Luciano Salazar

You’re probably thinking that everything listed in the summary can be found in many places in Panama. I agree with you; however, there is no other place like El Cangrejo. What makes this neighborhood -located in the center of Panama City— unique is the way so many different lifestyles converge in a relatively small area, and the community created thanks to the pedestrian-friendly Via Argentina. And you can feel the creative, independent essence in the air. The businesses are well thought out, the offerings are vast, and nothing is made in a uniform way that could be repeated in one of the city’s other neigh-borhoods; everything here has its own identity.

This can be confirmed by simply taking a look at the pedestrians strolling its sidewalks.
In Andrés Bello Park, strategically located in the middle of the Via Argentina, you might see a skatera young couple walking their dog, or a group of children playing basketball. Lyann Leguisamo, director of Open Arts Panama, an initiative that promotes the country’s cultural and creative impact, sees this as the result of a lot of community work and the integration of art and culture, not only as entertainment, but as a form of personal and collective fulfillment.

Located 30 minutes from Tocumen International Airport and connected to the rest of the city via the metro and its Vía Argentina station, El Cangrejo boasts a variety of hotels.

I, who have the luxury of calling this place my home, see what is happening now in El Cangrejo as a reflection of the creative identity the neighborhood has developed since its founding in 1950. Its streets have always been home to bookstores, theaters, cafes, and bars, making it Panama’s quintessential bohemian neighbor-hood. Renovations in recent years, such as the addition of wide sidewalks and the modern Parque Andrés Bello, have given it a new look.

A Neighborhood For All

El Cangrejo’s name comes from a stream located near the La Salle School that was home to an abundance of crabs (cangrejos). It was here that architects Richard Holzer and Gustavo Schay built one of their most emblematic buildings: the PH Es-ses (1963), an icon of Panama’s modern architecture. Most of the buildings from that period respond to the country’s climate by incorporating large balconies and cross ventilation.

Giancarlo Effio, co-owner of Mentiritas Blancas, one of the most respected and beloved cafés in Crabtown, assures that their success is due to it being a neighborhood for everyone. “This is a very organic neighborhood. What makes it beautiful is that there are offerings for young people, for counterculture people, and others more avant-gardeIt’s a timeless place. Additionally, youth has always converged here. It’s like La Candelaria in Colombia. That ensures it always stays fresh, evolves, and without knowing it, we’re always living what’s happening in the present,” he tells us. This allowed Mentiritas Blancas to find an audience thirsty for something intimate and organic. If you visit them, don’t miss trying their famous “gorditas” cookies and a good cocktail made with Panamanian coffee.

The neighborhoods eclectic mis is reflected in everything from the pedestrian in the establishments. Here you’ll find tattoo shop, organic wine bars, and even a traditional Japanese isakaya.

Where to eat, drink, and be merry

Another unique venue in El Cangrejo is Izakaya Kabuki. Inspired by the traditional izakayas Japanese izakayas (small, informal bars), it offers a cozy, authentic atmosphere where diners can enjoy real Japanese cuisine. Its popularity is easily measured by the line at the entrance every night. Seating is almost impossible without a reservation.

If the options above aren’t your thing, you might enjoy the Salón de Té Chino (Chinese Tea Room), where you can immerse yourself in Chinese culture through a traditional tea ceremony. The shop sells everything from vases to tableware and you can also sit down at one of the tables and listen to an explanation of what tea has historically meant to the Chinese while tasting a wide variety teas, and even some appetizers. The restaurants lining the streets of Crabtown serve food from all over the world.

Crabtown’s weekly cultural agenda is always jam-packed. In breweries like Tres Gatos you can listen to live jazz, while Casa Valiente hosts discussions on current issues and topics of social interest. Cervecería Central hosts comedy nights, Olivo Wine Bar holds organic wine tastings unlike anything anywhere else in the city, and Mentiritas Blancas always provides a quality Geisha coffee experience. These are just a few examples of the activity on its streets.

Cangrejo Radio changed the local electronic music party scene. Located below Taberna 21 (a Spanish restaurant where you can enjoy live acoustic guitar and, if you’re lucky, see world champion Roberto Durán having fun with his friends), it is a one-story bar with the DJ at audience level. In front of the turntables, a camera streams streams the set on Twitch, behind them, the dance floor. This set-up, popular now on the international electronic music scene, democratized and relaxed Panama’s party scene. Good music without big structures or tedious lines.

The birthtown of Crabtown

All of the visitors, locals, and business owners that we met on this tour feel proud and excited about the cultural breeding ground that El Cangrejo has become. Crabtown dances to the rhythm of the spirit of its streets, where histories, cultures, and flavors from around the world intertwine. This neighborhood defies the passage of time, preserving its bohemian spirit ánd community vibe while continuing to reinvent itself as an epicenter of art, cuisine, and meeting places.

Whether sipping tea in a Chinese ceremony, savoring Japanese tapas, or losing yourself in the textures and colors of its architecture, El Cangrejo invites visitors to walk its streets and experience its diversity.